Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe
Two years in the making, the Tenaya Oasi is the perfect all-round climbing shoe for experienced climbers, and it's developed a reputation for unrivalled comfort too. This shoe is a bag of technologies, utilising Tenaya’s MRRB system, which provides dynamic response and perfect balance, while the Draxtor lacing system combines the best parts of hook and loop and lace closure systems. The flexible midsole combined with a stiff forefoot sends power to your toes while remaining soft where you need it for superior smearing and edging power. The Tenaya standard additions, SXRDynamics and a lined, padded tongue make this a go anywhere, do anything, high-performance shoe.
Tech specs
| Closure type | Velcro |
| Color | Blue |
| Weight | 0.34 kg (Size 40 EU) |
| Sole material | Vibram |
Features
In-depth Review by Mani the Monkey
A Complete Description of the Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe, including Strengths and Weaknesses on the Wall. I'm going to take a look at General Appearance and Material (Sole, Rubber, Heel, Instep, Upper Surface, Closure System etc.) as well as Performance (Vertical VS Steep Terrain, Tiny Features VS Large Footholds, Friction, Heel Hook, Toe Hook and so forth).
I hope I could help you decide whether or not you should spend your bucks on this shoe. Did I forget something?
Alex Megos never leaves home without his Tenaya Oasi climbing shoes
What does Alex Megos never leave home without? We caught up with the German climbing maestro to unpick the contents of his crag bag and uncover the kit that he considers absolutely essential. What we discovered was that Alex clearly puts a premium on skin care with finger tape, nail clippers and a skin-trimming razor blade all making his list. Perhaps the secret to onsighting 9a is simply to keep your tips in absolutely perfect condition? Then again maybe his final pick, the Tenaya Oasi rock boots also lend a hand with the hard ascents.
Vibram XS Grip
The original winning compound, Vibram XS Grip is a rubber that’s especially engineered for climbing shoes. Its primary function is to provide the best function on all kinds of rock in every condition, without losing its shape, as well remaining durable and supportive throughout its life.
SXRDynamics
SXRDynamics is a movement adjustment system exclusively developed by Tanaya. It allows the shoe to direct power to the toebox based on the position of your foot for the ultimate precision on the smallest of features. It utilises a special joining technique so that the rand stays vertical to the sole when you put pressure anywhere on the toes, instead of bulging out, which can put you off balance. This means you have more sensitivity and precision, whatever your position on the rock.
What others have to say about Tenaya Oasis climbing shoes?
"Overall, the Oasi is a great shoe. It provides a unique combination of performance and comfort, and really can “do it all.” I’d recommend the Oasi to ambitious climbers who like their shoes on the softer side of the Goldilocks zone", Dave Pegg, Rock&Ice
Read the whole review from Tenaya Oasis Rock Shoe Review
I only tried these shoes so far in gym (bouldering and sport climbing) and they are great. They fit well, not extreme, and they give you good confidence on tiny edges and small pockets. The delivery was very fast (I received the shoes the day after I ordered them) and the size-converter really works (I also use Five Ten Anasazi size 44 and the Tenaya Oasi size 42,5 fits perfect). I will soon try these shoes on rock!
When I first heard about this shoe I just new I had to one, not only is the pro model of one of my favourite climbers it performs much better than I could of ever imagined. When I first bought this shoe I didn't know what size to get. I looked on many different websites that all told me different things so, I talked to one of the gear geeks who answered my questions with professionalism and in detail. I would highly recommend this shoe for anyone from intermidiate level and up. Great shoe. Even better company!!!!
The velcro system is similar to the Solutions and like with the solutions this means that the straps are prone to breakage. I preempted this and actually modded my shoe by reinforcing the straps with extra material. I also turned the two small velcro tabs into one big tab so they dont repeatedly come undone. A great shoe just wish tenaya would make these improvements themselves so the shoe doesn't come undone and the straps don't break. Would be a five out of five with these adjustments
Those shoes are really comfortable as soon as you try them even if they're really made for performance. They are a bit soft for me but that's because I like quite hard grip shoes.
Good news that they have changed the tightening concept (one fat scratch linking the two strings)
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Great performance shoe, very comfortable for its aggressiveness. Very stable on small holds, edging is surreal.
Only drawback is that it is not easy to put them on.