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Tenaya
Oasi Climbing Shoe
$4.84 worth of credit back
Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe
The shoe to be worn during the first 9a onsight by Alex Megos. Two years in the making, the Tenaya Oasi is built for strength, precision, and balance, with a soft midsole and sensitive design for overhanging sport climbs with technical toe-hooks and hard boulder problems with imperceptible foot holds. Tenaya's moving-tightening SXRDynamics and dynamic-response RB RangeX technologies work with the foot's biomechanics, producing a climbing shoe that uses every resource available in your foot. The signature Draxtor Lacing system is infinitely adjustable and is one of the fastest, most efficient, and precise closure systems available. As for fit, the Iati features a microfibre upper for the greatest longevity of the shoe's performance.
The Tenaya Oasi is for any high-end climber seeking a shoe built on "high-performance without the pain".
Tech specs
| Upper material | Microfiber |
| Flex | Soft |
| Closure type | Velcro |
| Color | Blue |
| Weight | 0.34 kg (Size 40 EU) |
| Last | Medium Asymmetry |
| Sole material | Vibram XS Grip |
| Sole thickness | 3.5mm |
| Profile | Downturned |
| Lining | Lined |
Features
Vibram XS Grip™
Original rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
SXRDYNAMICS®
Tenaya's movement-adjustment system that focuses power towards the big toe. This system is unlike any other found on a climbing shoe. It actively adjusts power based on the foot's position for smart precision on the smallest of features which prevents the rand from bulging out, which can knock you off balance. This means you have more control, more balance, and more power, on every foothold.
DRAXTOR® LACING SYSTEM
A highly precise, fast, and efficient lacing system. The webbing can be adjusted to the length to fit your foot's unique morphology, so every time you velcro up you'll have the same custom fit.
I only tried these shoes so far in gym (bouldering and sport climbing) and they are great. They fit well, not extreme, and they give you good confidence on tiny edges and small pockets. The delivery was very fast (I received the shoes the day after I ordered them) and the size-converter really works (I also use Five Ten Anasazi size 44 and the Tenaya Oasi size 42,5 fits perfect). I will soon try these shoes on rock!
When I first heard about this shoe I just new I had to one, not only is the pro model of one of my favourite climbers it performs much better than I could of ever imagined. When I first bought this shoe I didn't know what size to get. I looked on many different websites that all told me different things so, I talked to one of the gear geeks who answered my questions with professionalism and in detail. I would highly recommend this shoe for anyone from intermidiate level and up. Great shoe. Even better company!!!!
The velcro system is similar to the Solutions and like with the solutions this means that the straps are prone to breakage. I preempted this and actually modded my shoe by reinforcing the straps with extra material. I also turned the two small velcro tabs into one big tab so they dont repeatedly come undone. A great shoe just wish tenaya would make these improvements themselves so the shoe doesn't come undone and the straps don't break. Would be a five out of five with these adjustments
Those shoes are really comfortable as soon as you try them even if they're really made for performance. They are a bit soft for me but that's because I like quite hard grip shoes.
Good news that they have changed the tightening concept (one fat scratch linking the two strings)
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Great performance shoe, very comfortable for its aggressiveness. Very stable on small holds, edging is surreal.
Only drawback is that it is not easy to put them on.