Tenaya Mastia Climbing Shoe
The Mastia is Tenaya's newest climbing shoe you may have seen the pro's wearing. It is ideal for sport climbing and bouldering on overhangs and vertical walls. One thing Tenaya is known for is making high-performance climbing shoe's that are comfortable, luckily the Mastia is no exception, this means you don't have to cry tears of pain every time you put your climbing shoes on! With its splits sole, SXR Dynamics and RBRX technologies giving you a more fluid natural climbing style.
The Mastia has Tenaya's first Thermo moulded heel cup with friction lock technology which gives you a secure fit and will help you on powerful heel hooks. Standing on small holds will be as easy as toasting bread on a Sunday afternoon, with the Mastia stiff toe box you can stand on tiny edges and get the power you need to make the next move. Even though the toe box is stiff it has a flexible midsole which lets you be able to smear just as well as they can edge. Another great feature about the Mastia ( I know more!) is it has a very thin breathable tongue, ideal for sweaty sessions and letting your foot breath when you're trying hard. Some other facts you might want to know before making your decision are; they have a big patch of toe rubber great for toe hooks, they are synthetic so have minimal stretch and last but not least they're wider compared to other Tenaya models.
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Vibram XS Grip
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> Super sticky rubber covers the upper part of the toe-box and instep
> Lightweight and breathable bellows tongue that protects direct contact of the elastic of the instep with the foot.
> Two-part sole
> Glove-like fit.
> Precision fit and design holds the arch and heel of the foot snugly and securely.
5 product reviews
I preferred the sock like fit of the Iati. This shoe felt much more rigid and I was quite unsure of myself due to the significant asymmetry and emphasis on the big toe and edge. The toe box is a bit bubbly (though i have quite narrow feet and could've downsized a half size more to 41.
After a couple days of getting used to the firmer sole and edge, i fully began to appreciate how well this shoe performed on small holds, slabby and sharp. The flexibility in the mid sole is only limited by the rigidity of the toe, which has broken in supremely well. My heel sticks to anything and the precision of the ridged heel centre makes hooking nothing feel secure. I prefer the draxtor lacing system, but do appreciate the simple effort of a single strap across the foot.
This shoe is a great diversifier for the climbing arsenal. Highly recommend for small holds on vertical and overhanging routes. Provides a bit more performance than the Iati (which is my favorite shoe), but I will definitely choose the mastia over it a number of circumstances.
I have used the Iati model for a while and was quite happy with it but wanted something more geared towards bouldering. After reading that the Mastia has a wider toebox and looking at the other reviews, I decided to go half a size lower for Mastia. The fit was good but I could actually go another half or one whole size lower! Still, the shoe performed really well and became a great training shoe.
There are zero hot spots in my feet with this shoe but at the same time it feels snug. The rubber is stiff and is excellent for standing on small holds! While they aren't the best on smearing and volumes, they definitely perform well on those too, and I had no problem climbing on volumes and smearing on slabs.
Toe-hooking is very comfortable as well and I have been able to get solid powerful toehooks all around. The heel has a generally narrow profile, which makes it more precise and it is also sensitive. In addition, the moulded heel cup has a narrow profile which makes it easier and less painful to get heel cams.
This shoe is the perfect bouldering shoe for people with wider feet and it also performs really well on sport climbing routes that are overhanging and with small footholds.
I'm a fan of the Iati and Mundaka, this one feels different. It's way stiffer than the Mundaka, maybe even more than the Iati, but still as sensitive. You won't have that stretchy sock feeling you usually get in other Tenayas. It's still a great shoe however, very precise, and the heel is superior to other tenayas, where the thin slice of rubber at the back would peel when doing a sideway heel hook (with the knee/foot looking backward), not a big problem on routes but that stuff occurs often when bouldering. First go with these I just slapped the heel on a big sloper that was causing me trouble and it held perfectly. On the downside I would have prefered their other lacing system, since this is a slipper I hope the upper won't become all loose and saggy with time.
You'll need to get 1/2 size below the Mundaka (I'm 45 street, 42.5 for Mundaka, 42 Iati, 42.5 solution/miura, 42 this one).
You have to downsize quite a bit with these, I have EU42/43 in street shoes and downsized to EU39.5. They are great for standing on small holds and works for volumes but not as well. The toe part is nice and works well for toe hooks, and the heel is very nice, and fits my foot much better than other shoes I´ve tried.
All in all, great shoe, but you need to downsize quite a bit!
The Mastia is incredibly sensitive in both the toes and heel of the shoe. you can feel every little movement, and edge which is awesome! Additionally it is super easy to get on and off which can be another plus.
However, for those looking for the shoe to fit like a sock, or compression sleeve, the mastia might not be for you. The mastia has a bunch of volume specifically in the mid foot. It feels like I have a lot of dead space on the top of my foot and that the shoe is loose.
I think if they took the closure system of the Iati and put it on the mastia that would alleviate some of that issue.
All in all, I enjoy the shoe and have had no issues in performance despite the less snug fit.