SO ILL The One Climbing Shoe
The One is a do-it-all climbing shoe by the American brand, So iLL, their first all-round performance shoe. The One features a less aggressive design than is usual of So iLL's performance climbing shoes, but it boasts a higher performance than their other, more comfortable models. The One is much more suited to sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing, and more vertical boulder problems. The medium stiff midsole will provide a balance of foot support in cracks, on edges, and on longer climbs whilst retaining enough flex for technical manoeuvres and smearing.
A key feature of The One is its high levels of comfort achieved by its welded, no-sew upper. This eliminates the need for stitching, creating a wholly uniform fabric that doesn't present any painful hotspots or skin irritation. The comfort is enhanced further by the thick padded tongue and lining. This is a highly comfortable shoe, in more ways than one, that's ideal for anyone seeking a performance all-rounder that will keep their feet strong and content from start to finish.
Tech specs
Flex | Medium |
Closure type | Laces |
Color | Black |
Last | Low Asymmetry |
Sole material | Dark Matter Rubber |
Profile | Flat |
Features

Summary
• Aggressively tensioned heel
• Highly adjustable laces
• Vegan friendly
• Thick padded tongue
• Welded, no-sew upper
• • So iLL suggest guys order a half size up from street shoe size to give a tight and functional fit and ladies order one size down from street shoe size for a tight, functional fit

Dark Matter Rubber
Dark Matter Rubber was originally formulated for the US Navy Seals, who required a rubber compound that would reliably get them out of un-sticky situations. So iLL acquired the compound and adapted it for their climbing shoes, calling it Dark Matter Rubber. It's the world's first coloured rubber to retain all of its friction and grip properties.
Bought these shoes for my local gym self-belay system, wanted a set of shoes that I could leave on and work on endurance without foot pain. I also own a set of So Ill Street which are fantastic but I can't wear them for long sessions.
I wear a UK 10 regular shoe and own both UK 10 in both Street and The One, This feels very snug
There are a great pair of comfortable shoes at a reasonable price. Epic TV price them at £90-100 which I think is a fair price for the quality of the shoe and the performance of the rubber.
The shoe uses the same rubber and SO Ill's high performance down turned shoes, but the One is flat and had no seams on the inside. I've worn them all day on Trad trips with no issues, I also wear them frequently when bouldering and sport climbing, I rarely feel the need for more aggressive shoes due to the stickiness of the rubber.
These So Ills were comfortable enough to wear on long multi pitches. (5 pitches or more). They have a very comfortable tongue. The grip on the shoes are also extremely dependable. I had taken them on some trad climbs and I have to take 1 star away for having slightly less ankle protection and toe protection than the TC's. Also, you have to make sure to air them and spray them right after as the opening in the shoe is fairly enclosed. I bought them at regular shoe size (size 42.5 and bought 42.5) Overall a very good product and would highly recommend. For the price I think this would be a very good advanced beginner multipitch shoe (6a and below).