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Scarpa Vapor V Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Vapor V is an all-round performance climbing shoe designed to break conventions and be a "performance shoe with instant comfort". Designed by Heinz Mariacher, the man behind many of La Sportiva's classics like the Katana, Miura, and Mythos, the Vapor V's focus on performance without the sacrifice of comfort is purpose-built for beginner climbers seeking an entry into the world of performance climbing shoes or the further advanced who require all-day comfort in a soft, technical shoe.
Scarpa have achieved this performance comfort in a few main ways. The Bi-Tension rand does the opposite of a slingshot rand: rather than painfully jam the toes forward, the rand connects beneath the toes and pulls backwards to the heel structure to decrease tension, providing the same amount of precision but with less toe pain. The inner is soft suede leather with an almost luxurious feel to it, and the tongue is perforated to enhance breathability.
As for design, the Vapor V is on the technical side of performance all-rounders. Its soft midsole, toe rubber, and stepped heel cup provide performance on technical boulder problems and overhanging terrain, but the firm Vibram XS Edge rubber maintains stability on edges. The inner is lined suede leather, so expect it to stretch up to a half size. For a stiffer version that's better for longer routes and edging, try the lace version, the Vapor Lace.
*New heal construction made from microfibre reduces weight and also enhances the next to skin comfort in the Achilles
*New heal rand provides a more stable and higher friction for tenuous powerfull heal hooks
*New toe rand that protects your feel whilst toe hooking
*New tongue construction which is lighter, more breathable and will also retain its shape and positioning.
|Upper material|| |
Suede / Microsuede
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Alpha Yellow / Midnight Blue
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means lower weight and higher sensitivity.
19 product reviews
My first pair is at the end of its lifespan.Resoled 2-3 times until the overall wear took its toll on them (around 1 year usage) Got both the bright and dark yellow editions (summer and winter?). The dark yellow is bit more narrow but after 2 months its all the same.
My second toe is longer than the thumb and this shoe fits quite well for my feet.(if you are like me and can't bare asymmetrical shoes you will love the vapor)
They do stretch but thats not an excuse to tourniquet your feet.If you are new to climbing, like me, save yourself some time, money and pain and get a comfortable fit.
My foot is 27 cm and i took 40.5 size (26cm) I am willing to buy vapors again and use them as a work horse. Its fair to mention the one i got were discounted locally at 70 euro. At the price of 100-110 it seems like the vapor lace or instinct might be a better pick (will drop a line once i built the mileage there)
Overall its a good shoe, but be gantle on the velcro-> its soft and tends to tear
P.S: I would get half a size smaller next time only because my feet got used to the tightness, an year ago 40.5 would leave my feet sore during the breaking period, while i can fit 39.5 at this point. Allow your feet to adapt ! I hope that is helpful to anyone wondering about this shoe. Climb save!
Fits very nicely and comfortable. It gets a bit stretched over time, so considering the elasticity, you might want to choose half size smaller shoe
Ive had Vapour V's, Vapour Lace and Drago's from Scarpa and so far and these are my favourite. Being a little less aggressive I find them more bearable for longer periods of time, which is great for a longer session. technically they seem more than enough for my skill level and edging in particular feels really good. Oh and they look cool :)
Great product. I like the way the shoe supports my big toe. it is easy to stand at small edges. My feet are 265mm, street shoes: 43. My scarpa vapor: 42. I could imagine 41.5 for bouldering, but 42 still ideal. Don't hesitate. :)
I hade all models of Vapor V from the orange one (great), to the lime one (not so great) up to latest yellow/blue.
In general it's a very good shoe, only I was expecting a much stiffer and uncomfortable mdoel (coming from the Lime Vapor) so I sized half-size up, which now I think it's a bit too big. It also stretched more than the previous model (probably due to different material). I would say the fit is similar to the previous Vapor V, but the feel is much different, softer and more flexible.
Now I have a very comfortable shoe, wich is still able to climb technical stuff. Next time I would add half a size less though.
Colors are sweet! :)