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Scarpa Vapor V Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Vapor V is an all-round performance climbing shoe designed to break conventions and be a "performance shoe with instant comfort". Designed by Heinz Mariacher, the man behind many of La Sportiva's classics like the Katana, Miura, and Mythos, the Vapor V's focus on performance without the sacrifice of comfort is purpose-built for beginner climbers seeking an entry into the world of performance climbing shoes or the further advanced who require all-day comfort in a soft, technical shoe.
Scarpa have achieved this performance comfort in a few main ways. The Bi-Tension rand does the opposite of a slingshot rand: rather than painfully jam the toes forward, the rand connects beneath the toes and pulls backwards to the heel structure to decrease tension, providing the same amount of precision but with less toe pain. The inner is soft suede leather with an almost luxurious feel to it, and the tongue is perforated to enhance breathability.
As for design, the Vapor V is on the technical side of performance all-rounders. Its soft midsole, toe rubber, and stepped heel cup provide performance on technical boulder problems and overhanging terrain, but the firm Vibram XS Edge rubber maintains stability on edges. The inner is lined suede leather, so expect it to stretch up to a half size. For a stiffer version that's better for longer routes and edging, try the lace version, the Vapor Lace.
*New heal construction made from microfibre reduces weight and also enhances the next to skin comfort in the Achilles
*New heal rand provides a more stable and higher friction for tenuous powerfull heal hooks
*New toe rand that protects your feel whilst toe hooking
*New tongue construction which is lighter, more breathable and will also retain its shape and positioning.
|Upper material|| |
Suede / Microsuede
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Alpha Yellow / Midnight Blue
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means lower weight and higher sensitivity.
18 product reviews
Fits very nicely and comfortable. It gets a bit stretched over time, so considering the elasticity, you might want to choose half size smaller shoe
Ive had Vapour V's, Vapour Lace and Drago's from Scarpa and so far and these are my favourite. Being a little less aggressive I find them more bearable for longer periods of time, which is great for a longer session. technically they seem more than enough for my skill level and edging in particular feels really good. Oh and they look cool :)
Great product. I like the way the shoe supports my big toe. it is easy to stand at small edges. My feet are 265mm, street shoes: 43. My scarpa vapor: 42. I could imagine 41.5 for bouldering, but 42 still ideal. Don't hesitate. :)
I hade all models of Vapor V from the orange one (great), to the lime one (not so great) up to latest yellow/blue.
In general it's a very good shoe, only I was expecting a much stiffer and uncomfortable mdoel (coming from the Lime Vapor) so I sized half-size up, which now I think it's a bit too big. It also stretched more than the previous model (probably due to different material). I would say the fit is similar to the previous Vapor V, but the feel is much different, softer and more flexible.
Now I have a very comfortable shoe, wich is still able to climb technical stuff. Next time I would add half a size less though.
Colors are sweet! :)
This is my everyday climbing shoe - perfect for gym climbing and for climbing on all routes other than for redpoint burns.
Fits my slightly wide foot shape. There's no break-in time required. Easy to put on and to take off. The downturn and asymmetric last is perfect for precision on tiny footholds. The only downside for me is that the heel feels slightly voluminous, but I don't generally heel-hook so it's not an issue.