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Scarpa Instinct VS Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Instinct VS is the performance all-rounder of the prolific Instinct family. The Instinct VS features an ultra-precise and sensitive design, the type usually found on high-performance bouldering shoes, that allows for responsive feedback on rock with nigh-invisible footholds, but it's combined with a stiffening Flexan midsole, a precision Bi-Tension rand, and hard Vibram XS Edge rubber compound that bring it back to the performance realm of the vertical and technical edging variety. Even though it is aggressive and downturned, and with features for technical manoeuvres, the Instinct VS has been praised by climbers who express an ability to hold an edge unfounded in slipper style climbing shoes. This is all down to the innovative randing systems used by Scarpa, with the Instinct VS featuring the Bi-Tension rand that drives power through the big toe without painfully cramming the toes forward. The result is driving force without pain, discomfort, and instability.
An all-rounder with a particular focus on power and precision, the Instinct VS has been designed for effortlessly transitioning between technical faces and steep overhangs, high-end trad routes and performance boulders, all with instinctive ease. Designed for the do-it-all climber who works every style. When fitting the Instinct VS, bear in mind that the upper is synthetic, so whilst the shoe will break-in and feel more comfortable after a few uses, it will not stretch at all. This gives you a long-lasting performance fit that will never change, so it performs the same from its first day to its last.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Orange / Black
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• Specialised toe patch is made from softer rubber for high-friction toe-hooking
• Lorica® upper allows for zero stretch, maintaining the same performance-fit forever
• Floating velcro strap secures the fit without affecting suppleness
23 product reviews
A very soft shoe, adaptable to the foot, gives you confidence in small grips, with a good heel. Velcro is practical and appears to be durable.
There is no shoe that fits me as well as this one. I have a relatively wide foot in the front and I would say a normal heal. The show fits perfectly. I've never found a shoe with a better heal. And the top let's me do perfect toe hooks, they just stick! I can only recommend this shoe!
I have it in size 39 and my street size varies between 38 and 39.
After climbing in La Sportiva's and 5.10 Hiangle for some years I've tried this shoe. Best one so far.
I barely have any painfull pressure points on my toes. The break in time is minimal. Precision is good, smearing is really decent. Overall super happy and did my hardest sends with these shoes!
I'm a street size 42, climbing size 39.5.
This is my second pair of Instinct by Scarpa and I will definitely buy another one once I go through these. The fit and size are really great for me. The shoes are very precise (heel and toes) and will last for lots and lots of hard bouldering sessions. They’re a bit more expensive than other models, but that extra worth it especially on this website.
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I've been using this shoes for one and a half months in at least 3 climbing sessions a week and I find them really nice. I'm always looking for shoes with a wide toe box and a tight heel, and this shoes comply with these characteristics really good. Despite feeling quite ''hard'' just out of the box, once you throw a couple of sessions in the rubber starts to feel softer giving the toe box some flexibility allowing you to use your toes on almost any angle and position.
The heel is comfortable and really solid, giving a lot of confidence.
Also the velcro strap feels way more solid than other velcro models.
I was a bit skeptic by the fact that the shoes would almost not stretch at all after some hard use, but I have to say that despite feeling softer (which is good), the shape, tightness, and tension remains as during the first sessions. I'm quite impressed about it.
As for sizing, downsizing half a size from my street shoe worked perfectly, which is also half a size less than what the ''size recommendation'' of epictv told me.
In summary, I would definitely buy them again!