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Scarpa Instinct SR Climbing Shoe
An improvement of the old model both in terms of design and looks. The Instincts are known to be all-round climbing shoes that can perform on anything, but the SR model's slipper design lends itself to bouldering and indoor climbing. Medium asymmetry with moderate downturn, 3.5 mm of XS Grip2 rubber, and a soft midsole make the Instinct SR perform well on everything whilst retaining comfort, highly sensitive, and very good at toe and heel hooking.
New features include an M50 rubber heel construction and a larger area of toe rubber. This makes the Instinct SR even better for heel and toe-hooking than before. Plus, the 5 panel microfibre upper, REB reinforced elastic closure with seamless big toe panel, and seamless four-toe panel provide the best custom moulding fit.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
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• 5-panel upper with seamless big toe panel and seamless four toe
• Half-length Flexan 1.0mm insert
• Bi-Tension Rand
• 3.5mm ¾ XS Grip 2 sole. M50 rubber heel construction
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
6 product reviews
As the title states. this is my favorite shoe. despite it being a slip on, i have had it stay surprising well on heel hooks. the rubber is sticky and I've been able to send some of the hardest climbs ive done in it. Its easy on and off makes it great for bouldering. This shoe is a bit tighter than the standard instinct VS/VSR but i wear the same size in either model. IMO the fit is similar to the women's instinct vs. the most similar shoe ive tried is the UP Vim in size 40, but the vim feels more narrow and is harder to get on and off.
I bought these to be my new indoor climbing shoes. First I was sceptical because I've never tried slip-on shoes but these shoes fit perfectly. I went 2 eu sizes down from street shoe size (eu42 to eu40) which gives a really tight fit. Once you get your heel in, the shoe just sucks to your feet. I'd suggest going 1.5 eu sizes down if you don't like it too tight.
The edge is fantastic and the big toe patch makes it a treat to toe hook. Heel hooks are nice but I'd still prefer a velcro or laced shoes for intense heel hooking.
The 3/4 sole give a nice balance of stiffness and sensitivity I really like for my climbing style, I like to indoor boulder and lead. The downturn is great for overhanging routes but I wouldn't use these for slabby stuff. They're decent for smearing, the rubber is really nice and sticky, but with how tight I have my shoe I'd avoid slabs. I'm not the greatest fan of slabs so it doesn't really bother me.
I bought these because i had the original Instincts S and VS and they fitted me perfectly. This new model is slightly tighter (smaller in size) than the old one so i had to send them back for exchange. The shoe is awesome as most scarpas. I wonder when are climbing companies goig to get their sizing correct, it can't be that difficult no? :)
Before ordering these shoes, I had tried on a friend's pair of Scarpa Instinct VS (size 42 EU). They were awfully tight compared to my Scarpa Origins (size 44), but they still fit and I could stay on the wall for a solid minute or two without them hurting a lot. Due to his stretching a bit, I though 42.5 would do the trick. When they arrived I tried them on and they were too small, and I soon realized the toe box and upper quarter of the shoe is a bit different in the slippers. I exchanged them for a 43, which definitely still hurt a lot, but not nearly as much as the first. Now for the one problem... the middle fin that comes up from the toe started to peel just a few days after I got them. It's not that big of a deal, but it really angers me that after years of producing climbing shoes Scarpa have still not figured this out. I still love these shoes, and after a couple of weeks in the gym, I them extremely comfortable. With the sticky toe wrap I can now pull off the dirtiest heel/toe hooks.
Perfect like the old ones! Even better toe hook! I use them allarrowd (bouldering,sport climbing,multi pitch...)