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Scarpa Instinct S Climbing Shoe

Comento en español porque veo que no hay muchas opiniones en éste idioma y creo que para clientes de habla hispana que no dominen el inglés puede ser de gran ayuda.

Ya había tenido el modelo Instinct VS, y a pesar de que soy consumidor habitual de La Sportiva, he de decir que Scarpa hace también unos muy buenos pies de gato. Los italianos mandan en este tipo de productos.

Al lío, y en relación al pie de gato: en primer lugar destacaría la comodidad. Al ser bailarinas, son muy fáciles de quitar y poner, y escalando son realmente confortables.

Por lo que respecta a cuestiones técnicas: la punta asimétrica me encanta (por eso utilizo gatos italianos y no americanos), y además, la rigidez tanto de ésta parte como del pie de gato en general, a mi me parece ideal (no es ni lo blando que pueden ser los Skwama o los Phyton, ni tan duro como los Katana o Miura VS). Creo que eso lo convierte en un buen pie de gato tanto en vías de placa y canto pequeño, como en desplomes pronunciados.
Por lo que respecta al talón, no es demasiado duro lo que permita notar la roca y transmitir la fuerza en el punto deseado. El único problema quizás sería que, en taloneos muy exigentes, puede que se te saque debido a que no tiene ni velcro ni cordones para ajustarlo. Yo lo utilizo para hacer deportiva y no boulder.

En cualquier caso, en el punto de desgaste óptimo, la adherencia de la suela es excelente.

Yo lo catalogaría como un muy buen pie de gato debido a su versatilidad, comodidad, y prestaciones generales en cualquier disciplina. Y por el precio que está ahora, me parece una auténtica ganga.

Right out of the box the feeling is pretty stiff, but softens up quickly. Vibram XS grip 2 sole makes this stick to the tiniest holds, and gives you confidence to really put your weight on your feet. Not great for raw edging or trad, but very nice shoe for bouldering sessions. I'd compare it to Instict VSR, which arguably is one of the best shoes out there for sport/boulder. Compared to VSR, Instict S has more comfortable price tag for that day-to-day indoor grind.

I bought this shoe mainly to do boulder indoor (during winter time). Positive feedback: easy to put on - take off, lasts long (bouldering almost every day), good quality of the material.
Negative: It feels like the rubber is not that stiff, and have some minimal air at the heels when on... although the size is perfect. (perhaps the shape of my feet is the reason - in comparsion La Sportiva Miura perfectly fits)
All together: it worth trying.

Im a huge fan of Scarpa Instinct VS. This is why I wanted to check also this model. First surprise - very easy to put on. I was afraid of that because Scarpa VS is not the easiest shoe to put on. Instinnst S is!
Lots of reviews below says that they are good for wide feet. I have narrow feet and they are also perfect. So probably those shoes are for all.
I wear 36 standard shoes, and Scarpa Instincst s and VS also 36, once I tried 35 and I could take it off ;)
At the beggining they are not comfortable but what you can achieve in rocks wearing them is worth suffering...

For me they perform perfectly on rocks. I dont like to climb in them in the gym.

Theses slippers are great for those of us with big flippers.
Nice and soft too - you can feel everything through this rubber (not something you can say for other types of rubber).

What I'm trying to say is if you've got wide feet and prefer a shoe that translate the texture of the tiniest holds to your toes, these are a good option for you. The fit is enormously comfortable and goes against all that drama of having crushed up mangled feet.

They also come in size 6.66. What more can i say?

I was about to buy a more specialized sensitive shoe when my Vapor is not enough, but the chimera was sold out in my size and the price on these were really good.
They are much stiffer than the new line shoes furia,drago, chimera... That makes them more versatile and helps edging on small granit pebbles common in my area.
I size them 43 and that is an tight fit with no space left. I size Vapor 43,5, la sportive 43, and five ten 44. Street shoes 44-45.
As always Scarpa fits my wide feet perfectly.

I´ve climbed two sessions with this shoe and it fits like a sock! The last is perfect for my slightly wider feet and it has the right amount of compression from every side.

The shoe is super easy to put on and take off. After the first session the edging did not feel that good, but I am sure it will get better after the "break-in" time. Smearing was beyond my expectations and the Vibram rubber was super sticky. I send two of my projects with ease with the Instinct.
Toe hooking worked really well with overhanging routes and the heel hooks were better than I imagined. So the lack off the strap was not noticeable.

My street shoe is 44,5 and I chose 43,5 with the Instinct. Time will tell if I could have gone with a half size smaller.
In comparison with the Scarpa Drago the sizing is the same, but the Instinct is a lot stiffer from the beginning.

No doubt about this this will be one of the top indoor training shoes along with the Scarpa Drago, the Five Ten Hiangle and LaSpo Skwama. If the edging gets better this might be the number one shoe for my slab projects in the Spring.

With a longer testing period it could be a 5/5 shoe.

These climbing shoes are awesome! The shoe fits perfectly in my feet. They have an agressive shape although I find them very comfortable. I use them to train indoor climbing and they work really good.
I would highly recomend them.

It was hard to find this shoe in my size in the internet but epictv had it and it was even cheaper as on other sites. The shipping was fast and the best thing ... you get a 5 % vouvher for your next order ... just perfect. BIG THANK YOU