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Scarpa Instinct Lace Climbing Shoe
The Scarpa Instinct Lace is the all-rounder of the Instinct climbing shoe family: stiffer, with rubber made for edging, with a performance heel and a profile that make it perfect for high-end trad and edgy sport climbing.
The Scarpa Instinct Lace is the stiffest climbing shoe in the highly prolific, performance-orientated Instinct family. A longer ¾ midsole adds better foot support for edging manoeuvres, and the TPU cage wraps the foot and prevents torsional movements and roll during extreme edging. Rather than painfully cramming the toes to achieve power, the Bi-Tension System pulls power from the toes to give immediate performance with less tension. Features the award-winning heel from the Instinct VS to ensure the highest performance when heel hooking, and the Stix toe patch has been utilised for superior durability. Best on long sport routes or complicated trad climbs, but can perform in all types of climbing.
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Vibram XS Edge
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Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• The most supportive and shoe in the Instinct family
• Curved, asymmetric shape for steeper climbs but focus on edging power
• A reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe area and connected to the heel removes the need to cram the toes in the toebox, retaining both edging and overhang ability
• Award-winning Instinct VS Heel for the best in heel hooking performance
• STIX toepatch is highly durable and hardwearing to survive harsh and frequent toe-hooks
• Seamless micro-suede synthetic is comfortable on the foot
12 product reviews
Very happy with these shoes. Got them a half size smaller than my five-ten Anasazis and they fit great! The edge on the toe is great for smaller footholds. The heel is a small bit loose but not really an issue. Overall, very comfortable shoe and I would definitely recommend.
For some reason I prefer the old model, but these are still one excellent pair of climbing shoes, good heel fit (if you liked the vapors). la sportiva 38.5/39 = this instinct model 40.5 EU
Have been using these shoes for projecting hard routes and onsights where precision is key.
Sized down 1,5 sizes (42-->40,5), feels snug and comfy after 4 sessions. However after two routes/pitches or so feet can get quite sore. Edges great, precise. Toebox rubber isn't that sticky - although my comparison is a LS Solution so...
Heel feels super sticky, great construction. Laces help dial in the fit but after a few uses a bit of wear became visible on the inner section of the lace holes.
Downside: I personally think it would be a bit better to have at least 1mm more sole rubber. 4,5mm xs edge would be optimal. Rock just munched up the bulk of the sole after about 15 routes.
Recommend them for performance sport climbing, for bouldering, not so much.
One of the best shoes I have used. Perfect amount of aggression paired with a stiffer XS edge sole gives amazing edging power and is harder wearing.
Very comfortable- DONT stretch so size correctly.
The laces give great “sealed” in feel and the lush padded tongue add to the comfort .