Scarpa Instinct Lace
The Scarpa Instinct Lace is the all-rounder of the Instinct climbing shoe family: stiffer, with rubber made for edging, with a performance heel and a profile that make it perfect for high-end trad and edgy sport climbing.
The Scarpa Instinct Lace is the stiffest climbing shoe in the highly prolific, performance-orientated Instinct family. A longer ¾ midsole adds better foot support for edging manoeuvres, and the TPU cage wraps the foot and prevents torsional movements and roll during extreme edging. Rather than painfully cramming the toes to achieve power, the Bi-Tension System pulls power from the toes to give immediate performance with less tension. Features the award-winning heel from the Instinct VS to ensure the highest performance when heel hooking, and the Stix toe patch has been utilised for superior durability. Best on long sport routes or complicated trad climbs, but can perform in all types of climbing.
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Vibram XS Edge
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Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
A rand that that pulls power from the toes to achieve performance with less tension and less painful toe cramming. The Bi-Tension Rand also reduces the amount of rubber needed under the toes, which means a lower weight and a higher sensitivity.
Full Features List
• The most supportive and shoe in the Instinct family
• Curved, asymmetric shape for steeper climbs but focus on edging power
• A reverse slingshot rand anchored under the toe area and connected to the heel removes the need to cram the toes in the toebox, retaining both edging and overhang ability
• Award-winning Instinct VS Heel for the best in heel hooking performance
• STIX toepatch is highly durable and hardwearing to survive harsh and frequent toe-hooks
• Seamless micro-suede synthetic is comfortable on the foot
2 product reviews
The shoes has a relatively tight fit , similar to the velcro version. The velcro shoe is definitely better for hard bouldering, whereas the lace version is a good shoe for long sport routes. The sole is stiff and offers great stability on small footholds. Overall great for indoor sports climbing and hard outdoor projects. I prefer softer shoes (la sportiva skwama) for bouldering.
First had the Scarpa instinct VS which fits well but having the laces allows for a more dialed in fit. Sizing is the same as the velcro version, which suits my foot (wider forefoot with a more square toe area) and once broken in are tight but still comfortable, unlike other shoes for me. These shoes are great on overhanging terrain and heel hooking, edging is great as well, and once worn in they are fairly good at smearing as well. They stretch very little, but still loosen up a little bit, I'd say somewhere around 1/4 to 1/2 a size. Overall a great shoe that I will keep using unless I find something that fits better.