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Scarpa Furia Air Climbing Shoe
The Furia Air from Scarpa is the lightest climbing shoe in the world and feels like no other climbing shoe on the market. The Fura air is ideal for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing, with its MLT tension system which gives you great power in your big to stand on small edges, volumes or sloppy smears. The heal has a TAS system that gives this extremely flexible elastic shoe some dynamic support. The fantastic sensitivity that the Furia provides is because of the insole Scarpa has used, a 1mm thick flex medial strip which provides you with the utmost sensitivity and precision.
The upper on the Furia Air is made from a new bi-component perforated microfibre which weighs only 150g! It also packs smaller than an apple according to Scarpa, good if you are very space conscious, or if you only you have room for one apple and one pair of shoes. The upper has a seamless Alcantara big toe patch and offset four toe stitch which gives you the best moulding and custom fit.
So if you are looking for a performance shoe that is great for competition climbing, bouldering and sport climbing, which is very light and fits like a glove then the Furia Air is for you!
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
Baltic Blue / Yellow
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip
|Sole thickness|| |
Sole: Vibram XS Grip S2 3 mm
8 product reviews
I am now on my 4th pair of these bad boys having played around with the sizing a bit with previous pairs as if you go too large they have a tendency for the heel to slide a bit as they expand. That said, I didn't want to go too small like some other shoes I have worn as I feel the soft design benefits from a little more space, allowing the foot and toes to be more active.
A lot of people think you need the support of a stiff shoe when you are beginning and these shoes are definitely targeted at the intermediate and above but my experience is that a stiff shoe can also hide bad foot technique where as a soft shoe, and there is no softer shoe out there than the Furia air, actually encourages better technique through increased neural feedback through the toes, which translates into more stability and improved movement.
Being lighter means using less rubber and the wear is a trade off but as other reviewers have mentioned, it can encourage you to place your feet better and avoid excessive wall rub!
The second and 3rd pairs have lasted me well with just the tongue grip(pinch thing to pull shoe on??!) coming off on one. The velcro strap is also a little long if you have narrow feet but it is just a minor niggle others I know who climb in them have.
The heel fit is a bit loose and may not be the best for aggressive heel hooks but the toe rubber hooks very well and these shoes will definitely improve your smearing abilities.
I love everything about these shoes except the higher price ticket but I for one, really hope Scarpa keep making this shoe!
Ordered and received a pair that had more wear than I care to see in a “new”pair of shoes. Dirty toe impressions, sanded edge on the right foot to create an “edge” that had been worn and eliminating the shape of the toe edge above the dimple (underside of toes). I don’t think epicTV would sell this purposely as I’ve never had problems with any shoe orders in the past. This was however a quite disappointing nonetheless. They do fit like a sock though. I’m way stoked and looking forward to the initial run to see how they perform.
These are amazing shoes, though in my opinion, they could be beter with a few small tweaks.
First of is the heel, the heel hooks feel really solid, and you’re able to put alot of power through the heel, which is a bit weird for me, because the heel is a bit too big compared to the rest of the shoe, so the first thing I would do is make the heel cup a little bit smaller. (But I know that someone else in my gym has the same problem with the furia air)
Next up is the toe, like the other shoes of the furia range, the toe patch runs up to about halfway your foot. This makes for alot of rubber for toe-hooking, but not quite as much as e.g. the scarpa drago (which have a toe patch that run all the way up your foot, leaving just enough place for the velcro strap). So compared to other high end shoes like the sportiva genius, scarpa instinct vs/vsr etc the toe-hooking feels amazing, but when compared with specifically the scarpa drago (in my opinion still the best shoes to buy right now), it feels only mediocre.
Because the shoe us so soft, it may be more diffucult to stand on really tiny edges (and I mean like razor-like edges) but for standard overhanging gym routes you have amazing power through the edge.
Finally I would like to discuss the support of the shoe, which isn’t great due to it being so soft and light, but I personally have only ever climbed (hyper)soft shoes like the scarpa furia s, scarpa instict vs/vsr and scarpa drago so this isn’t really an issue for me because my feet are used to it.
Personally I think you only benefit from this shoe if you’re a 7a/v6 and above climber. Because of the softness of the shoe, they wear down really quickly, especially if you drag on the wall alot with your feet (maybe look into something like sportiva vapor v or five ten anasazi)
Also if you’re not used to soft shoes, then maybe look into something more of a scarpa instict, which are still soft, but not so as to not give enough support for people not used to soft shoes.
If you are into soft shoes this is the best one. Rubber super stickie, good on slabs and overhang. Don’t know if will be my choice for face climbing on small edges, probably not.
I’m size 41 on chimera/ Drago, this model need sized down a full size, 40 it’s good for me.