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La Sportiva Otaki Climbing Shoe - Men's
The La Sportiva Otaki is a versatile, all-round climbing shoe designed with support and edging performance for long sport climbing with an aggressive shape suited for bouldering.
A popular shoe in the shop, probably due to being built on the same last as the high-performance, overhanging and steepness lover, the Skwama, and, surprisingly for a stiff shoe, has a similar level of sensitivity. Unlike the Skwama, the Otaki features a much stiffer midsole and Vibram XS Edge rubber. With this increased foot support, inflexibility, and harder rubber, the Otaki will be much better for climbers on vertical routes with more edging. La Sportiva haven't taken away all technical performance though! To make this shoe a true all-rounder, they've included the S-Heel™, an "incompressible piece of rubber" that stabilises and controls heel hooks and blocks to keep you stuck onto the hold, as well as sectioned toe rubber. It also features the P3® rand system that maintains the powerful shape of the shoe over time! (Some shoes tend to stretch too much and so lose their performance-shape.)
The Otaki uses a microfibre / suede leather upper with linings in the front and back, so expect there to be some level of stretch in the shoe, but not too much. It's hard to predict with these types of uppers and linings, but it should be up to half a size. La Sportiva also recommend fitting this shoe on the looser side for a comfortable performance fit. And, if you want a slightly stiffer shoe, try the laced version, the Kataki.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
Blue / Flame
0.22 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Edge
|Sole thickness|| |
Front and Back Only
Vibram XS Edge™
Rubber compound built for maximum performance on micro holds and extreme edging. This formula uses an improved plastic deformation resistance that ensures the utmost stability, rigidity, and support on footholds in hot or cold weather, as well as generally increasing durability.
P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
Full Features List
• Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking manoeuvrability and the perfect heel cup fit
• Laser-cut uppers reduce stitching and bulk
12 product reviews
I love this shoe as it fits snugly to my foot. It's very subjective, I know, everyone must find his/her own form. This is mine. It's still comfy and even I can use it in multi-pitch routes. But it excel on small edges, too. Easy to put on and off due to the velcro. This is my 3rd shoe of this model, it lasts pretty long and keeps its form very good.
It's the first pair I buy.
Excellent shoe with high precision punch at the front point, ie in the so-called climbing belt
Very comfortable shoe, I wear it on both the rock and the second ropes !!
In my boulder it gives me the precision to press.
I recommend it unintentionally for who wants this shoe primarily for rock and bullet.
I suggest buying a number below the everyday shoes
I bought these to replace some older slip-ons and was unsure of the size and fit.
About me: I have what would be described as the greek/roman foot.
Sizing: My street shoe size is a 45 eu and I went for a 43 eu in the Okaki. I did find the 43.5 eu more "comfortable" when I tested them, but I did not feel I had the same level of toe support of small foot holds.
After about 3 sessions, the shoes are getting easier to stay in. The rubber is quite soft and because of the downturn, smearing has not been the best. Though, toe/heel hooking is fairly good to my surprise.
Would I buy these again... yes... maybe in a larger size (43.5) for some multi-pitch or long gym sessions. Though I wouldn't hesitate to get the 43 for bouldering again.
Final thoughts: Size them for there purpose.
Let me start off by saying I really like these shoes - they are my go-to shoe for every session. That being said, I'm a gym-rat boulder enthousiast, climbing in the 6b+/7a range.
I bought these shoes on the small side (1 - 1.5 sizes down from sneakers) and they were initially tight, without any particular pressure points. Since (+- 5 months), they have broken in very nicely to the point where I can wear them for an entire session without discomfort. Visibly, they have not retained their downturn very well, however these still provide plenty of support. With good footwork, the shape of the toe can do wonders for your climbing.
Supportive and stiff midsole, good for edging, solid build, comfortable, yet aggressive shoe. Nice to look at.
The heelcup - if you are planning to heel hook anything small, look away from this shoe now.
Not amazing for smearing, but kind of works.
A bit of a background first: I am a huge fan of La Sportiva shoes, having owned the Solution, Katana, TC Pro, and Nago all at some time. The Solution has always been my go-to projecting shoe, while the Katana was my (rather expensive) gym shoe. The Otaki is more like the Katana than other shoes, but the Otaki does everything the Katana does and more. The design of the heel is worlds better, the back of the shoe doesn't dig into my Achilles tendon, and the fit is slightly more aggressive without sacrificing any additional comfort. That says a lot when many people consider the Katana as one of the most comfortable, well-rounded shoes on the market!
I used the Otaki primarily for gym climbing, as well as climbing the limestone in Siurana. Let me just say: this shoe can EDGE! Even on the slick, featureless limestone, I was always able to find a nub to press off of and I don't recall having any trouble with feet slipping, even when climbing in such intense sunlight that my whole body was drenched in sweat.
The 4mm Edge rubber offers plenty of support, so I didn't find myself yanking the shoes off while resting on the rope like I might with other shoes. The velcro straps are very tough, but are low profile and never get in the way. The leather uppers around the toe have lasted up to my first resole, but I do worry that they may be the first integral part of the shoe to blow. Regardless, with the awesome deal I got on them thanks to EpicTV, I won't be kicking and screaming when it's finally time to retire them. I'll just use my store credit to snag another pair :D
Street Size: 43.5
Solution: 41.5 for performance
TC Pro: 42 for comfort/performance
Otaki: 42 for comfort/performance, but could easily fit 41.5.