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La Sportiva Katana VCS Climbing Shoe
The La Sportiva Katana VCS is an all-round climbing shoe ideal for an intermediate to advanced climber who wants one pair that will perform in any environment. The La Sportiva Katana VCS is the perfect collaboration of comfort and performance for longer, moderately overhanging sport climbing problems and face-climbing. It features opposing hook and loop straps which means you can achieve a glove-like fit, and the breathable lining in the front, and the stretchy, moisture-wicking fabric in the back mean your feet will be dry and comfortable all day. The slingshot rand works in conjunction with La Sportiva's Powerhinge technology to send power straight to your toes making it perfect for edging, but it also has the sensitivity and comfort you could need from an all-round climbing shoe. Compared to the La Sportiva Katana Lace, the La Sportiva Katana VCS is a little narrower and a little softer.
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Yellow / Black
0.45 kg (Size 40 EU)
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Vibram XS Edge
Developed for maximum support, Vibram XS Edge rubber allows you to focus your weight on the tiniest of holds. Thanks to improved plastic deformation resistance, XS Edge keeps its shape through hours of repeated abuse, in hot or cold weather. Great for use in conditions where secure edging is paramount, it provides the best balance of performance and durability.
Dual Powerstrap Closure
A dual powerstrap closure allows for a precise, adjustable fit, and is much quicker and easier than lace closure systems. Placing the straps on opposite sides of the shoe means that friction can be generated from both sides, similar to a lace system, which provides a more even, balanced fit.
Originally developed and patented by La Sportiva, the slingshot rand is a one-piece rubber rand which wraps around the entire foot. It prevents lateral stretching of the shoe and drives the foot forward for a powerful fit over the forefoot.
Powerhinge is a technology used in La Sportiva climbing shoes that allows for better, more stable edging. When the toe of the shoe is weighted on an edge, the weight of the climber stretches from the heel forward. A hole cut in the bottom of the outsole causes the shoe to only stretch in the back half of the shoe, effectively leaving the toes in place on the surface of the rock.
La Sportiva Katana Review
"The Katana is very comfortable and easy to get on and off. The big Velcro circles give you some options of how to tighten down the shoe. The large tongue wraps around the top of the foot and means there is not seam up top. This is a very soft shoe so you really feel the holds on overhanging routes." -Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab
To read the full La Sportiva Katana review go to http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews/La-Sportiva-Katana
5 product reviews
Overall the rubber feels too stiff, at least for limestone, my feet started skidding a few times in these shoes even on quite reasonable smears. And yes, I do think this was mainly because of the shoe as climbing the same routes in different shoes I didn't have the same problem.
I am now on my 6th!!!!!!!! Pair of these shoes. They are simply the best all round climbing shoe I have ever used. The edging is awesome along with the quality of the rubber. The confidence this shoe gives me with my feet placement or smeering is absolute. Very comfortable fit, which matches up with my normal shoe size means I have complete faith ordering online. The rubber does wear down quite quick but with the Epic pricing it is definitely my 1st choice shoe.
A mate of mine loves these shoes, and has had several pairs so far. When I was out for a new pair I thought I'd try these as a safe bet. I'd previously had the la Sportiva Tarantulas. Compared to the Tarantulas the Katanas are quite tight. For my size they were very tight at first but appear to be easing off now after a few weeks use. It's true that these are good for clinging on to small edges. Time will tell how long they last, but my mate's ones are lasting 3-4 months, mostly regular indoor wall climbing. When they go it tends to be the tip of the toes that rub through the rubber first. Can't complain overall for the EpicTV price I paid...
The Katana is an all-rounder with medium assymetry and a neutral profile. This is my second pair of rock shoes, having upgraded from a pair of (now) worn-out Tarantula's.
The Katana is a significant improvement over the Tarantula for sports climbing as it offers:
a stickier sole - making it easier to trust your feet; and
sharper edges - making it easier to leverage the tiniest of footholds without slipping off.
If you're primarily into slabs or hardcore bouldering, however, you should probably look elsewhere.
I ordered the same size as I use in Tarantula's (UK 9, normally wearing UK 10) and found the fit to be snugger all over, while remaining reasonably comfortable in climbing terms. They are a good fit for my feet, but the Velcro straps are longer than I would have preferred, sticking out over the edge of the shoes. The bottom strap is made to be trimmed down, which is great, but the top one is unfortunately not, which means it could get undone if you jam your foot in a crack.
After starting climbing just over a year ago I decided to upgrade the shoes I wear from a La Sportiva Tarantula size 12 UK to the Katana VCS 10 UK.
Although I found the Tarantula a good entry level shoe, as my grades have increased and the demand I make of the shoe has grown the requirement for something a little more aggressive as become my next step toward achieving my goals.
The first thing for me was the sizing. I tried many different shoes on, eventually settling on the Katana's in a UK 11, only to make an error with my order and end up with UK 10. On trying the 10's though, I realised that these were the right shoes for me. They fit like a glove with my heel filling the back of the shoe and locking into place nicely. I can heel hook in these without any movement of the shoe whatsoever. The Velcro strap works well tightening the shoe in a balanced way allowing you to finely adjust the feel of the shoe.
On the wall the edging is fantastic with very sharp lines and a good thickness of rubber. The rubber is very sticky and it gives you the confidence to push down hard on the smallest of footholds. I’m still braking the shoes in so there is a little pain on my big toes but I am confident that the shoe will eventually stretch the half size I require for a perfect fit.
If like me, you have very narrow feet and need the Velcro to get that tight fit feeling then I recommend you try on a pair of the Katana VCS.