Find the best size for you
La Sportiva Genius Climbing Shoe
The La Sportiva Genius is one of their best-selling and most high-performance climbing shoe, one that has undoubtedly had climbers screaming "Eureka!", thanks to the shoe's No-Edge® Technology.
Designed for technical sport climbing and steep bouldering, the La Sportiva Genius features all of La Sportiva's not-so-secret recipes for their top-spec shoes. The P3® rand system maintains the shoe's powerful downturn, permanently. Its asymmetrical lacing system provides the precise fit of laces, yet it allows enough room for rubber to be placed along the inside of the forefoot so as not to sacrifice toe-hooking performance. But it's really the No-Edge® Technology that makes the Genius: a design that removes the edges from the shoe's rubber, this technology makes the shoe much more sensitive and adaptable than a standard climbing shoe and, whilst it will take some getting used to, will excel on seemingly blank rock. It may seem like a daft thing to do, but climbers all over have been praising it.
As for fit and other features, the Genius is ideal for people with medium-to-wide feet, and La Sportiva recommend that it should be fitted in the "medium" range - i.e., not too loose, but not too tight. Vibram XS Grip2™ rubber is used for maximum friction (better for smearing!) and a medium-stiff midsole balances foot support and flexibility, ensuring you don't become too fatigued too quickly on longer sport climbs.
|Upper material|| |
Unlined Suede Leather
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
0.44 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
No-Edge® Technology is especially effective on featureless rock and for smearing. It decreases space between the toe and the shoe’s rubber to enhance sensitivity, allowing you to “feel” tiny holds with greater precision, and its edgeless design creates a greater contact surface area with the rock - i.e., you don’t just the rubber under your toes, but the entire toe-box. No-Edge® Technology is ideal for steep bouldering, technical climbing, and hold-less feature climbing, where it instills maximum confidence on holds you wouldn’t even notice were there in a standard climbing shoe.
P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
24 product reviews
This is going to be more of a review of no edge shoes than the Genius themselves.
I am no stranger to no edge shoes.
I have a pair of Mad Rock Haywire, and Boldrini Pantera which I use for outdoor bouldering, and they have been the most sensitive, and secure footing shoes I have used for outdoors, the Genius included.
No edge shoes definitely excels at outdoor climbing where you really need to be able to feel the tiniest of footholds.
These shoes will work for indoors as well, but in my opinion outdoors is where it truly shines. With indoor climbing, the footholds are usually more symmetrical which works better for traditional edged shoes.
Some people have said that no edge shoes makes your footwork sloppier because you can just stick your feet on the hold, and know that it will stay.
I would argue that you have to have proper footwork to begin with in order to feel comfortable using these shoes.
If you apply the same footwork with traditional shoes, it does require a little bit more precision, but that is simply because of the decreased sensitivity with edges make you feel less confident about sticking your feet. With no edge shoes, you have the confidence to know that you can just place your feet, and it will stay.
With the Genius, the sole is a bit stiffer than the Futuras, which proves better support for generating power with big toe.
In terms of heel hooking, I have had no complaints, they do the job adequately.
The reason why these shoes aren't getting 5 stars from me is because I have had manufacturing issues with them.
The first pair I bought, the sole started peeling after 1 short session. EpicTV exchanged them for me. But exchanged pair I received also had manufacturing issues, shoe's tongue was not stitched on properly.
I definitely recommend no edge shoes, but unfortunately, La Sportiva's manufacturing seems to be of poor quality.
The shoe has improved my climbing. I mostly use it for sport climbing, but I also enjoy using it for bouldering. The toe box is a bit too tall for me, and I also experience some air in the heel area. I would recommend going at least one size down.
Awesome performance and gorgeous looks. These shoes will not disappoint. I have never had so many questions and comments from crew at the gym and crag.
Not quite comfortable enough for me, especially in warm weather but is an excellent shoe. Once you are used to having no hard edge, you will never go back. You get a great feel of the rock which helps confidence with your footwork. Just uncomfortable for long periods of time. Don't use on a multi pitch like I did!
Teniendo en cuenta todos los gatos que han pasado por mis manos desde 1993, me han sorprendido gratamente.
He aquí mi análisis después de un tiempo con ellos.
Análisis La Sportiva Genius
Comodidad, ajuste, diseño y precio:
- Comfort: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Ajuste al pie / Fit to the foot: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Ajuste de Talón / Heel adjustment: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Costuras y Diseño / Seams and design: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Precio / Price: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5), si utilizas los buenos descuentos de EpicTV.
En la práctica/ In practice:
- Calidad de la suela / Sole quality: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Durabilidad / Durability: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Adherencia / Smearing: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Polivalencia /polyvalence: ⭐⭐⭐⭐(4)
- Vías Largas / Big Wall: ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐(4,5) Nota: Siempre y cuando te cojas mayor talla que lo habitualmente utilices en deportiva, ya que al ser ajustados, si realizas muchas horas puedes acabar con los pies rotos.
- Vías Deportivas / Sport Climbing: ⭐⭐⭐⭐(4) Nota: En placas con regletas finas, no entra la puntera, ya que es bastante ancha y redonda. Para ello, sería mejor unos con puntera convencional, p.ejemplo: Miura, Solution, Katana, etc.
- Boulder: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Rocódromo (Vías y Boulder): ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Taloneo / Heel hook: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5)
- Gancheo / Toe hook: ⭐⭐⭐⭐(4) Nota: Yo prefiero la puntera forrada por completo, pero la verdad que al final está diseñado teniendo en cuenta donde se realiza mayor apoyo. Si por tener mayor superficie de gancheo se pierde ajuste del pie, no cambiaría el diseño.
- Sensibilidad de la puntera en roca / Sensibility of the aim in the rock: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐(5) Nota: Espectacular. Al principio, hay que hacerse al gato. El apoyo de la puntera, hay que hacerlo más arriba que el de un gato convencional para sentir y abarcar el mayor apoyo en la puntera. Una vez que le cojas en truco, no querrás dejarlos.
En mi opinión, un ⭐⭐⭐⭐/⭐(4,5). Si tienes unos Miura o similares, ya tiene la pareja perfecta.