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La Sportiva Genius Climbing Shoe
The La Sportiva Genius is one of their best-selling and most high-performance climbing shoe, one that has undoubtedly had climbers screaming "Eureka!", thanks to the shoe's No-Edge® Technology.
Designed for technical sport climbing and steep bouldering, the La Sportiva Genius features all of La Sportiva's not-so-secret recipes for their top-spec shoes. The P3® rand system maintains the shoe's powerful downturn, permanently. Its asymmetrical lacing system provides the precise fit of laces, yet it allows enough room for rubber to be placed along the inside of the forefoot so as not to sacrifice toe-hooking performance. But it's really the No-Edge® Technology that makes the Genius: a design that removes the edges from the shoe's rubber, this technology makes the shoe much more sensitive and adaptable than a standard climbing shoe and, whilst it will take some getting used to, will excel on seemingly blank rock. It may seem like a daft thing to do, but climbers all over have been praising it.
As for fit and other features, the Genius is ideal for people with medium-to-wide feet, and La Sportiva recommend that it should be fitted in the "medium" range - i.e., not too loose, but not too tight. Vibram XS Grip2™ rubber is used for maximum friction (better for smearing!) and a medium-stiff midsole balances foot support and flexibility, ensuring you don't become too fatigued too quickly on longer sport climbs.
|Upper material|| |
Unlined Suede Leather
|Closure type|| |
|Sizing and fit|| |
0.44 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip 2
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Grip2™
Rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
No-Edge® Technology is especially effective on featureless rock and for smearing. It decreases space between the toe and the shoe’s rubber to enhance sensitivity, allowing you to “feel” tiny holds with greater precision, and its edgeless design creates a greater contact surface area with the rock - i.e., you don’t just the rubber under your toes, but the entire toe-box. No-Edge® Technology is ideal for steep bouldering, technical climbing, and hold-less feature climbing, where it instills maximum confidence on holds you wouldn’t even notice were there in a standard climbing shoe.
P3® Permanent Power Platform
After intensive abuse, downturned climbing shoes can start to lose their distinctive shape. La Sportiva’s P3 rand system prevents from this happening so your shoe maintains its powerful profile, permanently.
16 product reviews
Really good shoes, maybe heel is not so great (I prefer heels of testarossas) , but not bad either. Friction is very good, ideal for small holds - very secure feeling. I really like the lacing system, allows to adapt shoe for wider feet. They are quite tight around foot, even if the laces untie, you still can continue climbing.
At first I had doubts if I want to keep them because their aggressive and asymmetric design were keeping my blood from helping my feet function properly :D But after a few sessions I stretched them and now they fit snugly and I am glad for not giving them back.
Generally the Genius are aggressive, asymmetric down-turned no-edge pair of bad-boys for your hard ascents, although I use them in daily sessions as well. I love the no edge technology: it covers more surface for friction and there's a smaller chance of splitting the edge of the shoe (what happened with my previous Catana's). P.S. small minus - the red net'ish fabric on the top of the shoe under the laces got damaged after a couple of sessions, but it might not happen to everyone and it does not affect performance.
All in all - don't hesitate to take these saviours, but consider the choice of Futura or Speedster ;]
This is a high end climbing shoe that can be used all level climbers. Its shape is perfect for overhanging limestone but with enough precision for sandstone smears and crimps, This shoe is specially designed for onsight, as you need to pay less attention to where you place your feet, due to the no edge design. Its also a very comfortable shoe and its heel is similar to solutions climbing shoes. Regarding the size of the shoes, in my opinion is similar to the sizes for solution shoes, perhaps even to other shoes from la sportiva. The only thing I would like to see in this shoe model is a strap system instead of laces, however, many people like laces because you can secure the shoe with more precision.
High end climbing shoe for smearing, edgind, toe & heel hooks.
The only con at the start is that gets time to get used to the no edge sole, like starting to climb again, but then you won’t want to use another thing because it's really sticky and adapts to all forms of rock, appart from sensitive. Another inconvenient could be find a resoler, but there are being more & more people that does that, and if you use your feet properly, they last so long. In addition, when you get a new rubber, it also includes the toe rubber that usually gets worn out through time, so that’s really an advantage.
The lacing system embraces the feet really well. I use the same size than katana lace’s or miura VS.
These shoes live up to the hype, the no edge technology means fast placing of the foot on marginal footholds feels secure in positions where in other shoes I would have rated the placement as 50 / 50. For onsight climbing on sports routes, hard redpoints, and bouldering and training these shoes are my number one choice. I find the fit around the toe very tight to start with but soon wears in and then very precise. The shoes are well made and an excellent addition to the La Sportiva range. I got them 2 full sizes down on my street shoes 40 - 38. Initially the lacing seamed almost superfluous however as they wore in it ensured an exact fit. Overall a brilliant shoe.