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La Sportiva Genius Climbing Shoe
The La Sportiva Genius is one of the brand's most high-performance climbing shoes meaning it can tackle anything modern climbing can throw at it. A laced version of the Futura, the Genius is one of La Sportiva’s most high-performance climbing shoes, and it's comfortable, to boot. It combines the unique sensitivity and performance of La Sportiva's No-Edge construction with the versatility of a lace-up shoe, which makes it great for edging and smearing on anything from techy boulder routes to slabby sport climbs, without the need for an excessively tight fit. The most versatile climbing shoe we've ever come across - and it fits most feet.
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Yellow / Red / Black
0.44 kg (Size 40 EU)
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What Is Adam Ondra's Favourite Crag Snack?
As well as the obvious climbing shoes, La Sportica Genius or La Sportiva Speedster (both with 'No-Edge' technology) and his Black Diamond Mojo chalk bag (packed with lots of extra chalk), there are a few less obvious essentials that Adam never heads to the crag without. Despite being primarily a sport climber, Adam still takes a chalk brush with him whenever he's climbing. Greasy holds aren't just the preserve of boulderers after all! Adam's last pick isn't a single item but rather a lot of little items. Dried fruit and nuts to be precise; Adam's choice snack for a day at the crag.
La Sportiva No-Edge Technology
La Sportiva’s revolutionary No-Edge concept has been developed along three distinct features: sensitivity, uniform pressure and adaptability. The absence of any edges in the sole allows the foot to work in harmony with the shoe for a more precise and fluid climb. The No-Edge construction system also reduces the distance between the foot and the rock surface, enhancing foot sensitivity on holds.
XS grip 2. Pure friction.
The natural evolution of a winning compound, XS Grip 2 rubber improves upon the superior grip characteristics of XS Grip and delivers outstanding precision in the form of support, shape and stability. It provides exceptional grip in every condition and was developed especially for climbing shoes by Vibram.
La Sportiva P3 Power Platform
P3 permanent power platform is a rand, developed by La Sportiva, which is used in aggressive climbing shoes to help them maintain their down-turned shape for the duration of their life.
La Sportiva Genius Review
"To borrow a few very apt words from the folks at La Sportiva, the Genius is the tip of a very sharp spear. A synergy of multiple concepts and technologies, the Genius is worthy of the high praise (and the hefty price tag) its been given. The revolutionary no-edge concept combined with a wrap-around P3 midsole that provides a taut and responsive feel gives the la Sportiva Genius an unparalleled blend of sensitivity and support on the rock. Add a lacing system that enables you to dial in a perfect fit and some midlife crisis sports car flashiness, and you've got a sending machine that looks as rad as it feels." -Thomas Greene ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab
To read the full La Sportiva Genius review go to http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Climbing-Shoes-Reviews/La-Sportiva-Genius
La Sportiva Genius Review
“Definitely one of the best high-performance rock shoes on the market.” -Climbing Magazine Picks the Best New Climbing Gear for 2015
15 product reviews
At first I had doubts if I want to keep them because their aggressive and asymmetric design were keeping my blood from helping my feet function properly :D But after a few sessions I stretched them and now they fit snugly and I am glad for not giving them back.
Generally the Genius are aggressive, asymmetric down-turned no-edge pair of bad-boys for your hard ascents, although I use them in daily sessions as well. I love the no edge technology: it covers more surface for friction and there's a smaller chance of splitting the edge of the shoe (what happened with my previous Catana's). P.S. small minus - the red net'ish fabric on the top of the shoe under the laces got damaged after a couple of sessions, but it might not happen to everyone and it does not affect performance.
All in all - don't hesitate to take these saviours, but consider the choice of Futura or Speedster ;]
This is a high end climbing shoe that can be used all level climbers. Its shape is perfect for overhanging limestone but with enough precision for sandstone smears and crimps, This shoe is specially designed for onsight, as you need to pay less attention to where you place your feet, due to the no edge design. Its also a very comfortable shoe and its heel is similar to solutions climbing shoes. Regarding the size of the shoes, in my opinion is similar to the sizes for solution shoes, perhaps even to other shoes from la sportiva. The only thing I would like to see in this shoe model is a strap system instead of laces, however, many people like laces because you can secure the shoe with more precision.
High end climbing shoe for smearing, edgind, toe & heel hooks.
The only con at the start is that gets time to get used to the no edge sole, like starting to climb again, but then you won’t want to use another thing because it's really sticky and adapts to all forms of rock, appart from sensitive. Another inconvenient could be find a resoler, but there are being more & more people that does that, and if you use your feet properly, they last so long. In addition, when you get a new rubber, it also includes the toe rubber that usually gets worn out through time, so that’s really an advantage.
The lacing system embraces the feet really well. I use the same size than katana lace’s or miura VS.
These shoes live up to the hype, the no edge technology means fast placing of the foot on marginal footholds feels secure in positions where in other shoes I would have rated the placement as 50 / 50. For onsight climbing on sports routes, hard redpoints, and bouldering and training these shoes are my number one choice. I find the fit around the toe very tight to start with but soon wears in and then very precise. The shoes are well made and an excellent addition to the La Sportiva range. I got them 2 full sizes down on my street shoes 40 - 38. Initially the lacing seamed almost superfluous however as they wore in it ensured an exact fit. Overall a brilliant shoe.
I moved from comfortable pair onto Genius and as expected it causes a lot of pain. Equally, the pain makes you to focus on your feet more so my footwork improved as a result. I appreciate the super sticky rubber and soft feel it provides. I am usually 43 and got 41. Even after I streched them I still cannot wear them for long until the pain overrides your heartbeat.