Five Ten Hiangle Climbing Shoe
The Five Ten Hiangle is regarded as one of the more comfortable top end shoes due to having less asymmetry in comparison to other models. This makes it a great entrance into wearing a more aggressive shoe, but will still give you the performance needed to reach the highest of grades. The synthetic upper has marginal stretch, this makes it easier to size from the start because the internal volume will not change radically. A combination of an elastic closure with velcro strap provides a nice balance between a slipper and velcro shoe, easy to get on and off as well as being a secure fit. The Hiangle is now made with a split outsole making it more flexible for better performance in competition style indoor climbing and on volumes, it balances sensitivity and support with a heavily downturned last, for high performance sport climbing and bouldering, excelling on overhanging terrain.
- Aggressive downturn for technical bouldering and sport routes
- Unlined microfiber upper retains shape and snug fit
- 3.5mm Stealth® C4 rubber sole sticks to barely there edges and Stealth® HF on the heel
- Elastic slipper with velcro strap
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0.45 kg (Size 40 EU)
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Stealth C4 Rubber
Stealth® C4™ Rubber
A high-friction rubber used on the majority of Five Ten’s shoes due of its all-round performance and versatility. Five Ten first debuted this rubber on the original approach shoe, the Five Tennie, in 1985, and since then Stealth rubber has always been developed by Five Ten themselves in direct conjunction with their shoes, unlike other shoe manufacturers who outsource their rubber. The result is a rubber that works with your shoe harmoniously.
6 product reviews
I first bought a 45 1/3 because i had an old 5.10 pair of shoes, they were too small and had to buy a 46 2/3 to fit tigth but being able to at least use my feet on the wall, after a couple sessions the shoe broke in and now its a very sticky and soft shoe for indoor climbing, very nice for toe hooks and good at heel hooking, also very precise and helpful on roof climbing.
These shoes are super comfortable and I can leave them on the whole session (got them in street size, though one size down would serve as a better aggressive fit).
Overall great design and they perform well in almost every aspect! Great smearing once broken in, toe hooks, sensitive on slab, etc.
However, I have narrow heels and these shoes aren't really suitable if you're like me - the heels have too much deadspace (the OG hiangles fit me way better) and I cannot heel hook properly and sometimes slip.
Also, if you're feet are low volume, the straps can only be tightened partially as it is not uniform in width - it gets wider on the female velcro side.
Wish I had wore them. But they were too small compared to my normal climbing shoes. Scarpa 40 is big for me and sportiva 39 is just about right. So before buying online try them on.
Worn them for a few sessions now and I love them. I really like how stiff they are it enables me to put down a lot of power.
I'm a 5.10 customers from years and I was very hyped by this new (nice looking) Hingle.
Overall it is a great shoe, but there are DEFINITELY some downsides to it:
- I have wide feet, and it was always a nightmare to break into a new pair of 5.10 (with some almost impossible). This Hiangle update is designed for wider feet, and that makes me, and my feet, very happy. Breaking in time was about 3 sessions of 4h each.
- Wear shoes that are SO EASY! Never the less, it is impossible that your feet will slip off while climbing heel-hooking, etc.
- The rubber is fantastic, sticky as hell.
- Despite the (very slightly) downturn of the shoe, it is completely possible to smear without impediments.
- I've mentioned the "wide-feet" friendliness of the shoe. However, even for a wide feet climber (eg. me) the shoe let a tiny tiny tiny bit of space in the arch area. That it is super weird and unnecessary. Still, it has not really compromised the performance.
- The shoe stretch a bit. Or better, it stretches a bit more than the previous synthetic Hiangle. So, simply downsize 1/2 number from your previous one. (I wish I knew this before -_-)
-The shoe is kinda bulky. Compare (again) to the previous version, the upper volume is ginormous. And this has definitely impacted the performances in some specific routs (mainly super small foot holes).
- normal sweating expectations (considering the synthetic material)
- doesn't smell tho
- not super light, but not super heavy
- looks fancy ( if this matters to you)
- they will get dirty in 0.5 seconds, especially when used outdoor ( Adidas, why white, WHY? Black is always the way to go!)
I would love to try the woman version next time, it is supposed to be lower in volume and probably more similar to the old Hiangle, aka big pain-great results.
At the moment I'll give it a 3, probably the same shoe, half-size smaller than what I'Ve purchased will be a 4.