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Five Ten Aleon Climbing Shoe
The Five Ten Aleon is an aggressive shoe designed for hard boulder problems with really small footholds. It's a powerful, extremely precise shoe which, thanks to Adidas' plethora of resources, features new materials and new manufacturing processes to improve its comfort, fit, and performance.
Traditionally, Five Ten's climbing shoes have been designed with a rounded toe-box. However, Five Ten's new shoe designer, Fred Nicole, a Swiss cobbler with years of experience repairing and dissecting Five Ten's climbing shoes, has designed the Aleon with a pointier toe and wider forefoot to really direct the shoe's precision towards the big toe. Nicole has also implemented a high arch and strong heel-toe tension to amplify the the big toe's power, making the Aleon extremely precise and powerful on edges and small footholds.
One of the main tools Five Ten have borrowed from Adidas' toolbox is Primeknit, a four-way stretch material that's digitally-knitted into the shoe. This allows Five Ten to fine-tune the amount of flexibility and support of the tongue. The result is a very tight-fitting tongue which, thanks to the extra flexibility, is still easy to take on and off.
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Stealth C4 Rubber
• Stealth C4 rubber for the greatest versatility on all rock types
• Rubber's concaved edge provides a solid edging platform
• Midsole with diamond-shaped increases flex but maintains edging support
• Seamless inner reduces painful hotspots and improves overall comfort
• Precision laser-edged rands are more malleable, will fit a greater range of foot shapes, and relieve pressure on the heel
• Lined microfibre upper won't stretch to maintain the shoe's aggressive shape
Stealth® C4™ Rubber
A high-friction rubber used on the majority of Five Ten’s shoes due of its all-round performance and versatility. Five Ten first debuted this rubber on the original approach shoe, the Five Tennie, in 1985, and since then Stealth rubber has always been developed by Five Ten themselves in direct conjunction with their shoes, unlike other shoe manufacturers who outsource their rubber. The result is a rubber that works with your shoe harmoniously.
12 product reviews
I bought these shoes because they looked like they would be good for a project of mine. So far I’ve really enjoyed them. I can use them on some pretty small edges. They hurt like hell to break in and are still a little uncomfortable but I like them so much that it doesn’t take away from them
Hasta ahora muy contento. Pies de gato para el siguiente nivel o grado. Para ubicaciones muy precisas. Cuidado con la elección de talla. Cede muy poco. Más que el pies de gato adaptarse al pie, es el pie que se tiene que adaptar al pie de gato..
I wore through 3 pairs of Aleons, and after going around and trying other shoes, I have come to realize that they are the definition of meh.
Pros: Super nice upper with the 4 way knit. Heel is suctioned down tight. Looks cool. Edging is solid, as are heels hooks. Stiff midsole means longer climbs wont wreck your feet.
Cons: Clunky and loose toebox, low sensitivity, extremely painful break in. Rubber feels far too glassy and stiff for hard boulders. Smears are garbage. Toe hooks are garbage. Volumes are slippery.
5.10 has them listed at 180$, these shoes are worth 100-110, nothing more. Too painful of a break in for the new climber, too weak at anything important for the advanced crusher.
I've bought these since i loved the old hiangle and needed a new "hard" shoe. However the "getting used to time" was quite longer in this one. Now i would say it's not a bad shoe for edgeing but not as intuitive as the old hiangle.
The heel is super tight and kind of vacuums onto the foot, i never had that - great!
Now the big downside: builtquality of this one is total crap!
I've only broken in the shoe and start to feel comfortable in it and the heelstrap is already peeling of. Why wouldn't 5.10 glue it under the heel stabilizing strap thingie as everyone else? I mean, that's no rocket science!
This didn't happen with the old team but also with the hiangle. Are they using cheaper glue? I can't tell.
Now i have a just broken in shoe, that won't heelhook anymore - shit!
A shoe that doesn't excel at any one trait, but does everything just "OK". It's a fairly soft, yet insensitive shoe. It is supposed to edge well, but I didn't feel comfortable standing on small holds. The sock-like upper was comfortable, but it also felt like it didn't provide a lot of support. Overall it's a decent shoe, but I wouldn't say it's worth the price.