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Boldrini Apache 5
Don't let the name fool you. This is one of the very few climbing shoes on the market designed to blend high-performance with comfort. The Apache 5 is downturned, but with a low asymmetry which allows it to be worn all-day without discomfort. Boldrini's high-quality rubber Formula Tractor Rubber cuts no corners when it comes to friction and durability and only settles for the best, without compromise. The signature Full Contact Sole removes the edges from the climbing shoe's rubber. Not only does this increase durability, it increases the useable area of the shoe's rubber, which makes the shoe more forgiving on foot placements. The X-Tension midsole is specifically designed to enhance edging ability. The full synthetic upper provides minimum stretch, which means the Apache 5 requires no breaking in and will keep its performance shape over its entire lifespan.
Able to perform on all levels of sport climbs and boulders, the Apache 5 is suitable for anyone seeking performance with comfort, making it an ideal shoe for high-level multi-pitch and trad climbers.
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
Black / Yellow
|Sole material|| |
Formula Rubber Tractor 4.5 mm
|Sole thickness|| |
Formula Rubber Tractor
Boldrini’s signature sole material, the only rubber to use aluminium particles as a filler to increase tensile strength making the rubber generally tougher, more durable, and less likely to crack and split or stretch out of shape. Boldrini materials use high quality materials that result in a much longer lifespan with less repairs necessary over their lifetime.
Full Contact Sole (F.C.S.)
A one-piece rubber sole that eliminates the glued rubber “seam” from the toe-box, making for more precise edging and gripping as well as prolonging the life of the sole. Similar to La Sportiva’s No-Edge Technology, the absence of an edge allows the toe box to pivot and roll to stay stuck to micro holds whereas an edge, with its fewer points of contact, would simply “unhook”. The greater surface area also means that wear is spread more evenly, and the chance of the seam splitting and cracking is completely eliminated.
An X-shaped midsole placed at the forefoot that increases support of the metatarsals, for greater comfort and power when toe-hooking.
2 product reviews
Bought corresponding size from my 41.5/7.5 long time trusted Miura VS to 42/8 for Apache. They are not as asymmetric as the Miura, hence the foot positioning is slightly different.
I'm still getting used to this.
They stick very well and the heel fits much better than the Miura.
The strap feels a bit loose, even when tighten to the max but the shoe fits like a glove so not an issue for me.
Maybe I'm still looking for some kind of pressure on the foot that I'm usually used to, I can keep them on for a while.
I've used them on steep bouldering wall and yes they stick, even on small foothold. I can rely on them without adjusting foot positioning.
In summary they deliver what they supposed to with a much better fit and heel cup.
Very happy with them without the pain.
These shoes are about 10-20% more expensive in other shops, which makes them one of the most expensive shoes on the market.
This being said, even at full price they are worth the money. The new design is incredibly comfortable with an improved leather sole and microfibre tongue. My favourite feature of the shoe is the full contact sole. This one piece rubber toe box is extremely versatile and completely negates the need for an "edge". The heel uses an aluminium composite rubber which is grippy as well as tough. I find that due to the full contact sole design, the sole only lasts about 4 months of heavy (4-5 sessions a week) use. However, you can send the shoes back to AB and they're professionally resoled, as good as new, for about €25 including postage.