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Tenaya Oasi Climbing Shoe
The shoe to be worn during the first 9a onsight by Alex Megos. Two years in the making, the Tenaya Oasi is built for strength, precision, and balance, with a soft midsole and sensitive design for overhanging sport climbs with technical toe-hooks and hard boulder problems with imperceptible foot holds. Tenaya's moving-tightening SXRDynamics and dynamic-response RB RangeX technologies work with the foot's biomechanics, producing a climbing shoe that uses every resource available in your foot. The signature Draxtor Lacing system is infinitely adjustable and is one of the fastest, most efficient, and precise closure systems available. As for fit, the Iati features a microfibre upper for the greatest longevity of the shoe's performance.
The Tenaya Oasi is for any high-end climber seeking a shoe built on "high-performance without the pain".
|Upper material|| |
|Closure type|| |
0.34 kg (Size 40 EU)
|Sole material|| |
Vibram XS Grip
|Sole thickness|| |
Vibram XS Grip™
Original rubber compound built for pure friction, recommended for use where maximum grip is the primary need - bouldering and sport climbing, indoor climbing, or extremely smooth, polished routes.
Tenaya's movement-adjustment system that focuses power towards the big toe. This system is unlike any other found on a climbing shoe. It actively adjusts power based on the foot's position for smart precision on the smallest of features which prevents the rand from bulging out, which can knock you off balance. This means you have more control, more balance, and more power, on every foothold.
DRAXTOR® LACING SYSTEM
A highly precise, fast, and efficient lacing system. The webbing can be adjusted to the length to fit your foot's unique morphology, so every time you velcro up you'll have the same custom fit.
10 product reviews
I had no idea what I was in for when I ordered this shoe…
When I first slipped them on, I awoke with my legs a-swingin’ - I had just caught the crimp on this line of the Grandpa Peabody boulder. Thoroughly freaked out, I managed to catch myself and made my way to the top. Could this be real??
In all seriousness, this is a fantastic, comfortable shoe. Versatile for vertical and overhanging. I love the sensitivity and I find that with the shape of the shoe, I don’t need to downsize tremendously to get solid toe power.
very comfortable, performs well on everything from slab to overhanging routes.
for me, the amount of rubber for toe hooking wasn't great, but it still worked, and the heel while tight tended to warp on sideways heel hooks.
Having said that they are excellent shoes and I highly recommend them.
Most comfortable shoe I ever tried. I used Evolv shamans before with UK size 8.5. For Tenaya oasi I chose UK 7.5 and it fits perfectly. To make this shoe even better I would place the pull straps differently (kind of hard to put on). One strap right on the end of the shoe would help a lot and other could be slightly on the side. Now both pull straps are little bit on the side. Anyway, I highly recommend this shoe!
Great performance shoe, very comfortable for its aggressiveness. Very stable on small holds, edging is surreal.
Only drawback is that it is not easy to put them on.
I only tried these shoes so far in gym (bouldering and sport climbing) and they are great. They fit well, not extreme, and they give you good confidence on tiny edges and small pockets. The delivery was very fast (I received the shoes the day after I ordered them) and the size-converter really works (I also use Five Ten Anasazi size 44 and the Tenaya Oasi size 42,5 fits perfect). I will soon try these shoes on rock!