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Edelrid Mega Jul
The Edelrid Mega Jul is an award-winning assisted braking belay device. The most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability.
If you'd like to see it in action, you can see a demonstration from Edelrid in the video above.
High braking performance assists the belayer with leader falls
Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner
For belaying a leader or bringing up 2 seconds, also suitable for abseiling
Rope can be paid out faster to a leader by holding device in the “open” position with the thumb
Suitable for 7.8 - 10.5 mm ropes
Robust solid stainless steel construction
1 product review
My partner and I have been using the edelrid mega jul for 3 years (~245 ascents) for sport, for trad, for ice climbing, for bringing 2 followers up, for absailing and it remains the lightest autoblocking device that can handle ropes in range 7,9 - 10,5mm. We use Beal Cobra II (8.6mm) half-rope for trad and Beal Karma 9.8mm for sport. The device blocks automatically when the leader falls, which makes our belaying more relaxed.
The thing I like the most is that it has no mechanical parts that can freeze up when climbing in the winter.
On absails you _can_ use it in lead-climbing mode without a prusik, but with a lot of rope below you, it can be difficult to get a smotth descent. I prefer to use Edelrids alternative method which turns the device around and supports the absail with a french prusik. This transfer the abrasion of the rope from the hand to the prusik (so no burns), and gives a smooth descent.